Significant part of the build now, firstly the engine is going in, also most of the work from this point is final and not a sub assemby to be fitted later. First job is to remove the engine loom to prevent damage. The wiring is packed into the top of the engine, also going to remove the individual spark coils.
Job is not to difficult as most wiring is attached via connectors. Each connector has a plastic lock clip that must be removed. This injector connector has a green clip, a latch is depressed and the lock clip pulled up.
Lock clip out.
The grey connector is unlatched by squeezing the grey side catch and pulling out the connector body.
After many connectors (all labelled and photographed) loom is out. The large connector on the left is for the engine management computer.
Lifted the engine and positioned in front of chassis.
Next job is to part remove a rubber donut in the end of the gearbox were the splined prop shaft fits. This is fitted by the gearbox manufacturer to hold the shaft central during transit to avoid oil leaks. The donut was flush with the conical seal and seemed to be secured by some sort of wax. The gearbox instructions had dire warnings not to damage any seals or surfaces during removal. After applying pentrating oil and working it into the whole inside face of the donut it finally came out after pulling (hard!) with pliers. The donut is protruding 5mm ready for final removal when the propshaft is ready to be fitted.
Also removed the gear shifter lever as the chassis transmission tunnel is tight. The bolts were locktighted, note the handy mascara brush in the drill used to clean out the holes.
Lifted engine again and pulled chassis forward.
Load leveller is very useful.
Just as well the shifter was removed.
Thats it! with a bit of extra help from the trolly jack.
Paul,
ReplyDeleteJust fitted my engine and gearbox to my GDEuro and am interested in knowing what the (your) angle difference is between the centre of the gearbox end to the centre of the diff'
Steve